Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate THDC - Oil Soluble Vitamin C for DIY Cosmetics UK

1. What is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and How is it Used in Cosmetics?

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA) is a stable, oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. Unlike pure Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), which is water-soluble and prone to instability, THDA is stable and easily penetrates the skin due to its lipid-soluble nature. It is widely used in skincare for its potent antioxidant properties, helping to brighten skin, reduce signs of aging, and protect against environmental stressors. THDA boosts collagen production, fades dark spots, and improves overall skin tone without the irritation sometimes caused by traditional Vitamin C. Its oil-solubility makes it ideal for use in a wide variety of formulations, including facial oils and emulsions.

2. What Do Experts Say? 

3. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Technical Details and Characteristics

• INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
• Physical Form: Clear to pale yellow oily liquid
• Solubility: Soluble in oils and fats, not soluble in water
• Usage Rate: Typically used at 1% to 10% in formulations
• pH Stability: Stable across a wide pH range (4 to 6)
• Key Properties and Functions:
  • Powerful antioxidant: Neutralizes free radicals and protects skin from oxidative damage
  • Stimulates collagen production to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
  • Brightens skin and reduces hyperpigmentation
  • Stable and non-irritating, even for sensitive skin
• Compatibility: Works well with a wide range of ingredients, including other antioxidants like Vitamin E and ferulic acid. It can be formulated into oil-based products and emulsions but should not be used in water-based formulations due to its oil-solubility.

4. How to Incorporate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate into Formulations

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is easily incorporated into the oil phase of emulsions or oil-based serums and creams. It can be heated to around 70°C if necessary, though it is stable at lower temperatures as well, making it versatile for various formulation types. Ideal for use in both day and night products, THDA works best in concentrations of 1% to 10%, depending on the formulation's goals. It is often combined with other antioxidants like Vitamin E and ferulic acid to enhance stability and provide synergistic effects. Since it is lipid-soluble, it penetrates deeper into the skin compared to water-soluble Vitamin C derivatives.

5. Where Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is Found in Skincare Products

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is commonly found in products aimed at brightening, anti-aging, and overall skin health. Typical formulations include:

• Serums and Oils: Frequently used in oil-based serums and facial oils to deliver brightening and anti-aging benefits.
• Moisturizers and Creams: Included in day and night creams to enhance skin radiance and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Sunscreen Formulations: Found in sun-protective products due to its ability to neutralize free radicals and boost skin's resilience against environmental damage.
• Brightening Treatments: Featured in treatments aimed at reducing dark spots, melasma, and improving overall skin tone.

THDA is perfect for both day and night use. When used during the day, it pairs well with sunscreen to further protect the skin from UV-induced damage.