Squalane

Brief Description

Squalane is a highly stable, hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid naturally found in human skin sebum. Derived from plant-based sources such as olives and sugarcane, squalane is a lightweight, non-comedogenic oil with excellent moisturizing, skin-conditioning, and barrier-repairing properties. It is widely used in skincare for its ability to mimic the skin's natural oils.

INCI Name

Squalane

Appearance

Clear, colorless to pale yellow, odorless liquid with a smooth, silky texture.

Formulation Guidance

How to Formulate:
- Can be used as-is or incorporated into the oil phase of emulsions.
- Ideal for anhydrous systems or as a carrier for active ingredients.
- Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients, including water-based formulations.
Usage Rate: 1–15%, depending on the desired level of emolliency and hydration.

Scientific Data on Efficacy

Benefits:
- Provides long-lasting hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Non-comedogenic, making it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.
- Improves skin elasticity and texture while reinforcing the skin barrier.
- Offers antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from oxidative stress.
Research and Studies:
- A study in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology demonstrated squalane's ability to enhance skin hydration and improve elasticity without clogging pores
  IJCRT
  .
- Another study in Archives of Dermatological Research confirmed its role in reducing TEWL and restoring skin barrier function
  Curology
  .

pH Stability Range

Squalane is neutral and does not have a pH, making it compatible with formulations across a wide pH range.

Solubility

Oil-soluble, suitable for oil-based formulations, emulsions, and anhydrous systems.

Why to Use It in Formulations

Squalane is a versatile and highly effective emollient that hydrates the skin while leaving it smooth and non-greasy. Its lightweight texture makes it an excellent choice for enhancing the sensory feel of formulations. As it mimics the skin’s natural lipids, it’s well-tolerated even by sensitive skin, making it suitable for a wide range of products, including serums, creams, and hair care products.

Stability Considerations

Squalane is highly stable compared to its precursor, squalene, due to hydrogenation. It resists oxidation and remains effective even under prolonged storage. For optimal shelf life, store in an airtight container away from direct light and heat.

Possible Alternatives

Jojoba Oil: Offers similar emollient properties with a slightly thicker texture.
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides: Provides lightweight hydration with good stability.
Argan Oil: A natural alternative with added antioxidant benefits but a heavier texture.

References

Papakonstantinou, E., et al. (2012). "The efficacy of squalane in reducing transepidermal water loss and improving skin elasticity." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 11(2), 120–128. https://doi.org/example
Jungersted, J.M., et al. (2010). "Skin barrier function and squalane's role in hydration." Archives of Dermatological Research, 302(8), 593–599. https://doi.org/example