Benefits of Elderberry Seed Oil to Skin

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Composition and Characteristics of Elderberry Seed Oil

Fatty Acids: Palmitic Acid 13%, Stearic Acid 2%, Oleic Acid 13%, Linolenic Acid 37%, α-Linoleic Acid 31%

Phytosterols 10,000 to 30,000 mg/kg

Vitamin E 3.12 mg/kg (mainly γ-tocopherol)

 

As shown above, Elderberry Seed Oil is particularly rich in fatty acids. The most prominent ones are inarguably, linoleic, oleic and linolenic acids (84-88.6%) [1]. Its high concentration of these fatty acids makes Elderberry Seed Oil highly regenerative and anti-inflammatory. On the other hand, the presence of Vitamin E gives it a nutritional profile which is particularly suitable and beneficial for skin applications. Finally, the phytosterols foster its highly antioxidative potential.  

Origin, geographic distribution and morphology

Elderberry shrubs or trees are originally from Europe and northern Africa (namely Ghana, Rwanda, Angola and Kenya), and have spread over time to Asia and North America [2]. In Spring, it is common for elderberry trees to bear clusters of delicate white or cream-coloured flowers [2]. The elderberry fruit typically comes in small black or dark-violet berry bunches (yellow and white berries have also been identified, but are rather rare).

Health Benefits of Elderberry

Both the flowers and the berries of sambucus have been highlighted by specialists for their considerable potential when it comes to boosting the immune system. This is due to its high content of antioxidants as well as vitamins [2]. According to some researchers, in some of the areas where elderberry trees are more easily found (especially Africa), their berries and flowers are often used for medicinal purposes - namely to help relieve some symptoms of cold and influenza [2,3].  Besides, elderberry has also been praised by many specialists for its anti-inflammatory and anti-stress potential [2]. 

When elderberry is used as a health ally, it usually comes in the form of a food supplement (either through the direct consumption of the berries or by juicing them). In this context, it is, though, important to acknowledge the precautions one must take before ingesting any part of the elderberry plant. Firstly, one should never eat the berries uncooked, as there have been adverse reactions (such as vomiting and diarrohea) shown by people who did so. Moreover, it is pivotal that one is aware that American or European elderberry tend to be safer (as they are the least toxic). Finally, the ingestion of elderberry is not indicated for people below 18 years old, as well as pregnant or lactating women, as there is no sufficient evidence of its safeness for these specific groups [3]. 

 

Benefits of Elderberry Seed Oil in the context of skincare formulations

Elderberry Seed Oil is mainly characterised by its yellowish / greenish colour and its very particular tart odour [4]. It is quite consensual amongst specialists that the elderberry part which is most suitable for cosmetic uses is the seed. Elderberry seeds contain approximatelly 10% of oil [1,4]. Even though Elderberry Oil has only recently started to be examined by Western skincare specialists (which is why scientific research regarding this oil is still rather scarce), it tends to be regarded by many as a valuable (even though rare) cosmetic oil.

Studies undertaken both in vitro and in vivo [1], combined with thorough, exhaustive analyses of the composition of elderberry seeds, have corroborated its highly antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties - which are mostly due to the abundance of phytosterols. This makes Sambucus Nigra Oil particularly suitable for irritated, inflamed, acne-prone and / or allergy-prone skin [4].

The same studies [1] also highlighted elderberry seeds' expressive content of fatty acids. The presence of linolenic, oleic and α-linoleic acids fosters Elderberry Seed Oil's suitability for those with very dry skin. 

Tip: Try to combine elderberry oil with coffee oil and shea or mango butter. This will most likely reduce skin flakiness and ease potential feelings of tension and / or dryness [4].

 

Elderberry Seed Oil's stability

Specialists alert that, in order to optimise its effectiveness, pure Elderberry Seed Oil must be used in combination with antioxidants or more stable oils. This is due to its high oxidative instability [4]. A study on the microencapsulation of elderberry extracts clarifies some of the challenges caused by this instability, as well as potential solutions (such as the combination of the oil, in its pure form, with other antioxidant elements) [5].

 

Sambucus Nigra Oil: the cold pressing method

As per suggested by many studies, the cold pressing method for extracting elderberry oil is the one that helps it retain its nutritional qualities and properties more effectively. That is mainly due to the fact that this extration procedure does not involve chemicals of any sort, and, unlike other extration methods, it does not involve extreme heat (typically, temperature does not exceed 50º) [6]. 

Studies consistently show that, because of its chemical absence as well as the low temperature that characterises the cold pressing, the oils which are extracted through this procedure tend to retain their main nutrients (with particular emphasis on antioxidants) – a feature which is extremely important when dealing with oils for cosmetic applications [ibid.].

Elderberry Seed Oil: final remarks

Elderberry Seed Oil is certainly a powerful addition to one's skincare - particularly to the ones with dry skin, acne-prone and allergy-prone skin. It is a highly regenerative, anti-inflammatory and antioxidative oil whose benefits have recently started to be recognised and fully acknowledged by skincare specialists. 

 

References 

[1] Fazio, A. et al. (2013) Comparative analyses of seeds of wild fruits of Rubus and Sambucus species from Southern Italy: Fatty acid composition of the oil, total phenolic content, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of the methanolic extracts. Food Chemistry, 140, pp. 817-824

[2] Mairura, F. (2007) Sambucus Nigra L. Netherlands: Prota Network Office Europe

[3] Arakelyan, H. & Arakelyan, S. (2021). Elderberry (Sambucus): Health Benefits and Side Effects. Clinical Phyto-Pharmacodynamics

[4] Glavac, N. K. & Janes, D. (2021) Modern Cosmetics - Ingredients of Natural Origin: A Scientific View, Volume 1 [Encyclopedia of natural cosmetic ingredients]

[5] Ribeiro, A., Estevinho, B.N. & Rocha, F. (2020) Microencapsulation of polyphenols - The specific case of the microencapsulation of Sambucus Nigra L. extracts - A review. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 105, pp. 454-467

[6] Cheikhyoussef, A. et al. (2020) Cold pressed berry seed oils in Cold Pressed Oils, pp. 277-287