Hemisqualane
Brief Description: Hemisqualane is a natural, lightweight emollient derived from plant sources. It is known for its excellent spreadability, non-greasy texture, and ability to soften and hydrate the skin. Hemisqualane is a sustainable alternative to traditional silicones and mineral oils, making it a popular choice in natural and clean beauty formulations.
INCI Name: C13-15 Alkane
Appearance: A lightweight, clear liquid oil.
Formulation Guidance: Hemisqualane is often used as a natural emollient in a variety of formulations. It has excellent spreading properties and is ideal for products where a non-greasy feel is desired. It can be added to formulations at a wide range of concentrations, typically from 1% to 20%, depending on the product type. Hemisqualane is compatible with most formulation ingredients, including silicones, esters, and other natural oils. It can be used in anhydrous formulations or emulsions.
Scientific Data on Efficacy: Hemisqualane is known for its high spreadability and skin penetration properties without the greasy residue typical of heavier oils. Research has shown it can effectively reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and provide a soft, silky skin feel. Its non-comedogenic nature makes it suitable for acne-prone skin as well.
Usage Rate: 1% - 20%
pH Stability Range: Hemisqualane is stable across a wide pH range, typically from 4.0 to 8.0.
Solubility: Insoluble in water; soluble in oils.
Reasons for Using in Formulations: Hemisqualane is a renewable, plant-derived alternative to petroleum-based ingredients, offering a lightweight emollient that is ideal for enhancing the sensorial properties of formulations. It provides a dry, non-greasy finish, which makes it a popular choice in haircare and skincare products. Hemisqualane also offers improved skin absorption for other active ingredients in the formulation.
Consequences of Stability Loss in Formulations: Hemisqualane is generally stable and resistant to oxidation, making it a reliable ingredient in formulations. However, improper storage, such as exposure to high heat or direct sunlight, may reduce its efficacy.
Possible Alternatives for Skincare Formulation: Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, and Coco-Caprylate/Caprate are commonly considered alternatives to Hemisqualane, each offering unique benefits in terms of emollience and skin feel.
References to Quoted Research Studies:
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Pioneering research into sustainable emollients for skincare applications, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020.
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Comparative analysis of non-comedogenic emollients, International Journal of Dermatology, 2019.