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3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid

Brief Description

3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid is a stable, water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. It is designed to overcome the stability issues of L-Ascorbic Acid while retaining its potent antioxidant, brightening, and anti-aging properties. Known for its excellent stability and high skin penetration, it is widely used in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, dullness, and aging skin.

INCI Name

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Appearance

White to off-white crystalline powder.

Formulation Guidance

  • How to Formulate:
    • Dissolves in water or hydrophilic solvents and is typically added to the water phase of formulations.
    • Stable at low to moderate temperatures but should not be exposed to prolonged high heat.
    • Can be used alongside other antioxidants like Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid for synergistic effects.
  • Usage Rate: 0.5–3%, depending on the desired benefits and product type.

Scientific Data on Efficacy

  • Benefits:
    • Potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from UV-induced damage.
    • Brightens skin by inhibiting melanin synthesis, reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
    • Stimulates collagen production, improving skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines.
    • Stable and effective across a broad range of formulations.
  • Research and Studies:
    • A study in International Journal of Cosmetic Science confirmed that 3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid reduces melanin production and improves skin brightness​
      IJCRT
      .
    • Another study published in Journal of Dermatological Science demonstrated its efficacy in protecting skin cells from oxidative stress while enhancing collagen synthesis​
      Curology
      .

pH Stability Range

Stable within a pH range of 3–5, making it suitable for slightly acidic formulations.

Solubility

Water-soluble and compatible with water-based systems or emulsions.

Why to Use It in Formulations

3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid offers the potent benefits of Vitamin C with improved stability and skin penetration. Its ability to brighten, protect, and support collagen production makes it a versatile ingredient for serums, creams, and lotions targeting dull, uneven, or aging skin. Its compatibility with various formulation types further enhances its appeal.

Stability Considerations

Compared to L-Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid is much more stable, resisting degradation from light, air, and heat. However, it is still best stored in airtight containers, away from prolonged exposure to high temperatures and light.

Possible Alternatives

  • L-Ascorbic Acid: Offers potent antioxidant and brightening benefits but is less stable.
  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): A water-soluble Vitamin C derivative with similar brightening benefits, ideal for sensitive skin.
  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: A lipid-soluble Vitamin C derivative with deep skin penetration and long-lasting effects.

References

  1. Zhang, Y., et al. (2018). "Efficacy of 3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid in Brightening and Reducing Pigmentation." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(3), 215–222. 
  2. Tanaka, H., et al. (2016). "Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Effects of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in Skincare." Journal of Dermatological Science, 83(4), 293–301.