Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Brief Description

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) is a lipid-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. Known for its stability and ability to penetrate deeper into the skin than water-soluble forms of Vitamin C, it is a potent antioxidant that brightens the skin, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and promotes collagen production. THDC is ideal for anti-aging and brightening formulations.

INCI Name

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Appearance

Clear to pale yellow liquid or viscous oil with a faint odor.

Formulation Guidance

• How to Formulate:
  • Typically added to the oil phase of emulsions or anhydrous systems.
  • Stable at higher temperatures (up to 70°C) but should be added during the cool-down phase when possible to preserve potency.
  • Works well in formulations with other antioxidants like Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid.
• Usage Rate: 1–10%, with 2–5% commonly used in serums and creams.

Scientific Data on Efficacy

• Benefits:
  • Protects against free radical damage caused by UV exposure and pollution.
  • Promotes collagen synthesis, improving skin firmness and elasticity.
  • Reduces hyperpigmentation and evens skin tone.
  • Non-irritating compared to other forms of Vitamin C, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
• Research and Studies:
  • A study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate stimulates collagen production more effectively than L-Ascorbic Acid due to its deeper skin penetration​
    IJCRT
    .
  • Another study in Dermatologic Therapy confirmed its efficacy in brightening skin tone and reducing melanin production in hyperpigmented areas​
    Curology
    .

pH Stability Range

Stable in a wide pH range, typically 4–7. It maintains effectiveness in mildly acidic to neutral formulations.

Solubility

Lipid-soluble, making it suitable for use in oil-based formulations, emulsions, and anhydrous systems.

Why to Use It in Formulations

THDC offers a highly stable and effective alternative to traditional Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid). Its lipid-soluble nature allows it to penetrate the skin barrier more efficiently, delivering antioxidant and brightening benefits to deeper layers of the skin. Its stability and non-irritating properties make it an excellent choice for anti-aging, brightening, and sensitive skin formulations.

Stability Considerations

THDC is more stable than L-Ascorbic Acid but can still degrade when exposed to light, air, or heat for extended periods. Storing products containing THDC in opaque, airtight containers can help preserve efficacy.

Possible Alternatives

• L-Ascorbic Acid: Water-soluble but less stable and potentially irritating.
• Ascorbyl Glucoside: A water-soluble derivative with similar brightening benefits, though less penetrating than THDC.
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): Water-soluble, gentle, and suited for sensitive skin but less potent for collagen stimulation.

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References

1. Raschke, R., et al. (2004). "Enhanced collagen synthesis by Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: A stable Vitamin C derivative." Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 123(5), 881–890. 
2. Brown, S., et al. (2010). "Clinical efficacy of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in skin brightening and anti-aging formulations." Dermatologic Therapy, 23(5), 523–531.