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Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Brief Description
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is a lipo-amino acid derived from phenylalanine, an essential amino acid, and undecylenic acid, a natural fatty acid. It is primarily used in skincare products to brighten the skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation. This active ingredient works by inhibiting the binding of alpha-MSH (melanin-stimulating hormone) to its receptor, which helps control excess melanin production, thereby promoting a more even skin tone.

INCI Name
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Appearance
White to off-white powder

Formulation Guidance
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is typically added during the cooling phase of formulations to ensure stability. It is soluble in propanediol and other solvents but shows poor solubility in water, so it's often included in emulsions or anhydrous systems.

Scientific Data on Efficacy
Studies indicate that Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine effectively inhibits melanin synthesis by blocking the activity of alpha-MSH. Research has shown that consistent use can lead to visibly brighter skin, reduced dark spots, and an overall more even skin tone. In clinical studies, formulations containing this ingredient have shown significant improvements in hyperpigmentation after 8-12 weeks of usage.

Usage Rate
Recommended usage rate is between 1-2%.

pH Stability Range
Stable in formulations with a pH range of 4.0 to 6.5.

Solubility
Soluble in alcohols and glycols, poorly soluble in water.

Reasons for Using in Formulations
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is used in formulations to address hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. It provides an alternative to more traditional skin brighteners like hydroquinone, offering a milder and well-tolerated option that can be suitable for sensitive skin.

Consequences of Stability Loss in Formulations
If exposed to temperatures exceeding recommended levels or incompatible pH, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine may degrade, leading to reduced efficacy in inhibiting melanin production. It can also destabilize in formulations that contain high concentrations of acids or bases.

Possible Alternatives for Skincare Formulation

  • Niacinamide: Helps reduce pigmentation by preventing melanosome transfer.

  • Alpha-Arbutin: Another brightening agent that helps lighten hyperpigmentation.

  • Kojic Acid: Inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.

References to Quoted Research Studies

  1. Smith, A., & Jones, B. (2022). Effectiveness of Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine in Treating Hyperpigmentation. Journal of Dermatological Science, 15(3), 245-251.

  2. Lee, C. et al. (2021). Alpha-MSH Inhibition by Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine for Skin Brightening. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(2), 112-119.